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Recent Reviews:

Review by busted_knuckles on October 13th, 2014   See Item
1/2 and 3/8 drive rails work OK
1/4 drive rails are useless - you need to push the sockets on hard enough that it bends the sheetmetal tangs, which then fall off the rail

The entire set is not deburred well and the tangs are a bit sharp to be moving around when sockets are not attached.
Review by royesses on September 27th, 2014   See Item
Purchased for $59.00 with 24% off coupon. Made of some kind of wood that has a green cast with what looks like walnut stain. The top lock is non functional but they supply keys for it. No drawer slides other than wood tenons. Fit is ok and the drawers are lined with green felt. It is quite functional and for the cost is a pretty good value. Top drawers are sectioned with slide in inserts. Great for holding hobby parts. It is not a Gerstner.
Review by hffool on September 16th, 2014   See Item
I bought one with a similar problem and the fuel switch was assembled backwards and of was on and on was off.Runs great now
Review by bahhumbucker on September 12th, 2014   See Item
There are two listings for this trailer - I gave a more detailed review in the other one, now that I've made several mods and lived with it. Bottom line, it works, and it's cheap. I wouldn't trust it on the highway. By the time you make all the mods that you probably should make, you will probably wish you bought a better one used off of craigslist. But if you don't mind tinkering, and will be using it for very light duty, it's ok. I gave it a "2" but would have given it a 3 if it didn't suck up so much time.
Review by bahhumbucker on September 12th, 2014   See Item
It's a rickety trailer, but for the price that's no surprise. There are a few really annoying problems that you are likely to have to correct, however, depending on your intended use. First, the casters used to roll the trailer aroung when folded and up vertical are a complete joke. Two of the four broke to smithereens on the very first use. I replaced them with larger casters (also from the local HF store) which are much better, but the 4 new ones cost $25. Casters, even HF casters, are expensive. Also, to clear the new, larger casters, I had to move the brackets for the rearmost side stakes. A bigger problem is the trailer's dimensions. HF advertises that it's 48 x 96, but the head of the hinge bolts encroaches on into that space - so you will have trouble carrying sheets of plywood or drywall. I made spacers of out 1/2 inch aluminum plate to space the hinges out, which worked. This required longer hinge mounting bolts, and getting a wrench on them is harder (but possible). Next, if you build the stake bed sides the way the instructions tell you, you won't be able to carry full 4 by 8 sheets, either. Put the verticals in the stake brackets, but run the horizontals on the OUTSIDE, not the inside. You'll use a little more wood, but the trailer will be more useful. The instructions advise a 3/4 piece of plywood for the deck, but I used 1/2 inch, which I think is fine. I counterbored and used carriage head screws so that my sheets of drywall wouldn't be dented. Some of the carriage heads spin in the plywood (it happens with plywood) so I glued those into their holes with epoxy.

The bolt together structure is not the best. Personally I would not trust this on the highway. I use it to go to Lowe's, which is 2 miles away on surface streets.

The wiring won't survive much folding and unfolding without getting pinched. It's about the least durable insulation I've ever seen. I haven't done it yet, but plan to hang a piece of 1/2 inch pvc conduit on the frame, and run stranded THHN in that.... with a 4 wire flat connector at the folding joint, and tied to the trailer frame with a velcro strap. It will be a lot more durable than the HF design, and having everything on the outside will make troubleshooting easier... because as we all know, trailer light wiring always gives trouble.

The nuts are nylon insert stop nuts, but they are the cheapest and least effective I've ever seen. I used them, but in retrospect I wish I had put a drop of blue loctite on them as insurance. You can also get better nylon insert nuts but it will cost you, as there are many used. You would be better off welding the thing up, but then you would have to re-paint. Again, it's all do-able but more work than it seems like it should be.

When you unfold the trailer, you need to use 4 bolts (2 per side) to keep the back half from bouncing around. What they have works, but I find it inconvenient to put those bolts in and remove them every time I use the trailer. I plan to come up with a better, and easier to get to, means of securing the rear half in the "running" position. You may or may not want to do the same.

Finally, one of the lug nuts was machined so badly that it would distort the rim if torqued. So be sure to get a good look at them and replace any that don't look square.

This thing actually takes a lot of work to get together and to correct all the little design issues. If you have time, the price is right. But if your time is valuable, you will do better with a better trailer.

Haven't put enough miles on mine to be able to say if the hubs and bearings will last. It trailers fine.... the key to a trailer that pulls nicely is to be sure you build it pretty square. Because it's a bolt together, use a framing square and tape measure to get it all straight.

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